A Journey Through Time: Discovering Telavi

As a former university professor of European history, I have always been drawn to the stories that ancient architecture and historical sites tell. My recent journey to Tbilisi, Georgia, was no exception. The Medieval History Tour promised an exploration of royal residences and Georgian architecture, and it delivered in spades.

Our adventure began in Telavi, a town that stands as a testament to Georgia’s rich history. Nestled in the Kakheti region, Telavi is not only an administrative center but also one of the oldest towns in the country. As we drove through the picturesque Gombori road, the anticipation built up. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the sight of the recently restored residence of King Erekle II. This museum, filled with numismatic material, late medieval armor, and copper items from the XVII-XIX centuries, offered a tangible connection to the past. Walking through the halls, I could almost hear the echoes of history whispering the tales of a bygone era.

The town itself, with its cobblestone streets and ancient buildings, felt like stepping back in time. It was a perfect introduction to the medieval wonders that awaited us on this tour.

The Spiritual Heart of Kakheti: Alaverdi Monastery

Our next stop was the Alaverdi Monastery, a religious center that has stood the test of time since the XI century. The monastery is not only a place of worship but also a burial site for Father Joseph Alaverdeli, dating back to the VI century. The mural paintings adorning the walls are a testament to the artistic prowess of the era.

Alaverdi is also renowned for its vineyards, and the tradition of winemaking here is as old as the monastery itself. As we wandered through the vineyard, the scent of grapes filled the air, and I couldn’t help but marvel at how the past and present coexist in this sacred place. The monastery’s serene atmosphere provided a moment of reflection, a chance to ponder the spiritual and cultural significance of this ancient site.

The Legacy of Learning: Ikalto and Gremi

Our journey continued to the Ikalto Monastery Complex, once the largest educational center in Eastern Georgia during the Middle Ages. Today, the ruins of the academy building stand alongside three churches, offering a glimpse into the intellectual pursuits of the past. As someone who has spent a lifetime in academia, I found this site particularly fascinating. The idea that scholars once gathered here to exchange ideas and knowledge resonated deeply with me.

The final destination of our tour was the Gremi Citadel and Church of the Archangels. Gremi, once the capital of the Kakhetian kingdom in the XVI-XVII centuries, now stands as a historical complex. Though much of it was destroyed during the invasions of Shah-Abas I, the Archangels complex remains a symbol of resilience and faith. The view from the citadel, overlooking the lush landscape, was a fitting end to our journey.

This tour was more than just a trip through history; it was a reminder of the enduring legacy of human creativity and resilience. Each site we visited told a story, not just of the past, but of the present and future. For those who share my passion for history and architecture, the Medieval History Tour is an experience not to be missed.