The Journey Begins: Tracing the Via Egnatia

As a former professor of European history, the allure of the ancient Via Egnatia was irresistible. This historic route, once the main artery connecting the Roman Empire’s western and eastern reaches, promised a journey through time and culture. My wife and I embarked on this adventure, eager to explore the rich tapestry of the South East Balkans.

Our journey began in Tirana, Albania, where the vibrant cityscape set the stage for our exploration. The road to Elbasan was our first taste of the ancient route. Elbasan, with its storied past, offered a glimpse into the Roman Empire’s influence in the region. The Elbasan Castle, dating back to the 4th century BC, stood as a testament to the city’s historical significance. As we wandered through the ethnographic museum and the old mosque, the layers of history unfolded before us, each site a chapter in the story of the Balkans.

Continuing to Ohrid, North Macedonia, we were greeted by the serene beauty of Lake Ohrid. The Sveti Naum Monastery, perched on the lake’s edge, was a highlight of our visit. Its blend of western and oriental architecture was a visual feast, and the views across the lake to Albania were simply breathtaking. The city of Ohrid, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a treasure trove of historical sites, from the 11th-century church of St. Sofia to the ancient Roman theater. Each location whispered tales of the past, inviting us to delve deeper into the region’s rich heritage.

Discovering Ancient Heraclea and the Waterfalls of Edessa

Our journey continued to Bitola, where the ancient city of Heraclea Lyncestis awaited. Founded in the 4th century BC, Heraclea was a marvel of ancient architecture. The well-preserved mosaics, Roman baths, and antique theater spoke of a time when the city was a bustling hub of activity. As we walked through the ruins, I couldn’t help but imagine the lives of those who once called Heraclea home.

Leaving Bitola, we traveled to Edessa, a city known for its stunning waterfalls. The cascading waters provided a refreshing contrast to the ancient ruins we had explored earlier. Standing at the edge of the falls, I was reminded of the natural beauty that complements the region’s historical richness. It was a moment of tranquility, a pause in our journey that allowed us to appreciate the diverse landscapes of the Balkans.

From Pella to Thessaloniki: A Journey Through Macedonian History

Our next destination was Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. The archaeological museum there offered a fascinating insight into the ancient kingdom of Macedon. As I examined the artifacts, I was transported back to a time when Pella was the heart of a powerful empire. The stories of Alexander’s conquests and the legacy he left behind were palpable in the air.

Finally, we arrived in Thessaloniki, a city that seamlessly blends its rich history with modern vibrancy. The Byzantine monuments, including the Galerius Arch and the Rotunda, were a testament to the city’s historical significance. Yet, Thessaloniki was also a lively European city, full of life and energy. As we strolled through its bustling streets, I was struck by the harmonious coexistence of past and present.

The Egnatia Route was more than just a journey through the Balkans; it was a journey through time. Each city, each site, was a piece of a larger puzzle, a story that spanned millennia. For a history enthusiast like myself, it was an unforgettable experience, one that deepened my appreciation for the rich cultural tapestry of this remarkable region.