Setting Sail to Hoy

The allure of Orkney’s Hoy Island had long been on my radar, a place where history and nature intertwine in a dance as old as time itself. My wife and I embarked on this journey with a sense of anticipation, eager to uncover the stories etched into the landscape. Our guide, Doogie, a man whose knowledge of the island seemed as deep as the North Sea, greeted us warmly as we joined a small group of fellow explorers. The ferry ride from Houton to Hoy was a serene prelude, the gentle lapping of waves against the “Hoy Head” setting the tone for the day ahead.

Upon arrival, the island’s rugged beauty unfolded before us. Our first destination was Lyrawa Hill, a vantage point offering sweeping views of Scapa Flow, a site steeped in wartime history. The sight of the salmon farm below, juxtaposed against the distant silhouette of Stromness, was a reminder of the island’s blend of past and present. This was just the beginning of our historical odyssey.

Ancient Echoes and Ghostly Whispers

Our journey continued to the enigmatic Dwarfie Stane, a Neolithic tomb carved from solid sandstone. Standing before this ancient monument, I was transported back 5,000 years, imagining the rituals and reverence that once surrounded this sacred site. The air was thick with history, each gust of wind whispering secrets of the past.

Rackwick, our next stop, was a poignant reminder of the island’s changing fortunes. Once a bustling community, it now stands as a near ghost town, its old buildings repurposed as museums. The Craa Nest, with its breathtaking views of Rackwick Bay, offered a glimpse into the lives of those who once called this place home. The Old Rackwick School, with its traditional Orkney slate roof, stood as a testament to the island’s enduring heritage.

Lifeboats and Wartime Legacies

In the afternoon, we delved into Hoy’s maritime history at the Longhope Lifeboat Museum. The Thomas McCunn Lifeboat, inaugurated in 1933, was a striking example of the island’s proud lifeboat tradition. The RNLB Helen Comrie, the first electronic lifeboat in the RNLI, showcased the evolution of lifesaving technology.

Our final stop, the Scapa Flow Museum, was a fitting conclusion to our tour. Located near the ferry terminal in Lyness, the museum offered a comprehensive look at Orkney’s wartime history. The exhibits, rich with artifacts and stories, painted a vivid picture of the strategic importance of Scapa Flow during both World Wars.

As we boarded the ferry back to the mainland, the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the waters. Our day on Hoy had been a journey through time, a tapestry of history and nature woven together in a way that only Orkney can offer. For those with a passion for history and a love of the natural world, Hoy is a destination not to be missed. Hoy Island Tour