The Ancient Pathway Begins: Durrës and Apollonia

As a former professor of European history, the allure of the Via Egnatia was irresistible. This ancient Roman road, a marvel of engineering and ambition, beckoned me to explore its storied path. My journey began in Durrës, Albania, a city that has stood the test of time since its founding as Dyrrachium in 627 B.C. The city, once a bustling Illyrian port, now serves as a gateway to the past.

Walking through Durrës, I was immediately struck by the remnants of its Roman heritage. The amphitheater, a grand structure capable of seating 15,000 spectators, whispered tales of gladiators and early Christian gatherings. Nearby, the Venetian Tower and the Medieval Town Wall stood as silent sentinels, guarding the secrets of a city that has seen empires rise and fall.

From Durrës, the journey led to Apollonia, an ancient city founded by Greek colonists. The ruins here are a testament to the city’s former glory, with its once-renowned school of philosophy and strategic importance along the Via Egnatia. As I wandered through the archaeological park, I could almost hear the echoes of ancient scholars debating the philosophies that shaped the Roman world.

Through the Heart of Albania: Tirana to Pogradec

Leaving the coastal allure of Durrës, the road took us inland to Tirana, Albania’s vibrant capital. Here, the National Museum and the Tirana Mosaic offered glimpses into the country’s rich tapestry of history. The mosaic, a relic from a Roman house, depicted scenes of daily life, connecting the past with the present in a vivid display of artistry.

Continuing eastward, we arrived in Elbasan, a city that thrived as a trading post on the Via Egnatia. The discovery of Illyrian graves near the castle walls added a layer of mystery to the city’s already rich history. As I stood by the ancient fortifications, I imagined the bustling activity of merchants and travelers who once passed through this vital junction.

Our journey then took us to Pogradec, a city nestled by the serene Lake Ohrid. The lake’s crystal-clear waters and the surrounding mountains provided a breathtaking backdrop to the historical narrative. Here, the monumental tombs of Selca e Siperme spoke of a civilization that valued both beauty and strategic importance, a theme that resonated throughout our travels.

Crossing Borders: From Ohrid to Istanbul

The road from Pogradec led us to the Monastery of Saint Naum, a spiritual haven perched on the border of Albania and North Macedonia. The monastery, with its Byzantine architecture and legends of Saint Naum’s miracles, offered a moment of reflection amidst the historical exploration.

In Ohrid, known as the “Jerusalem of the Balkans,” the city’s 365 churches stood as a testament to its religious significance. The ancient Greek Lacus Lychnitis, now Lake Ohrid, shimmered in the sunlight, its waters a constant companion along the Via Egnatia.

Our journey continued through Bitola and Edessa, each city revealing layers of history from the Macedonian and Byzantine eras. Finally, we reached Istanbul, the city where East meets West. Here, the grandeur of the Hagia Sophia and the echoes of Constantinople’s past marked the culmination of our journey along the Via Egnatia.

This tour was not just a journey through landscapes but a voyage through time, connecting the dots of history across borders and cultures. The Via Egnatia remains a testament to the enduring legacy of the Roman Empire, a pathway that continues to inspire and educate those who walk its ancient stones.