A Journey to the Lunar Island: Pag

Our journey began in the historic city of Zadar, a place that has long been a crossroads of cultures and civilizations. As we set off towards Pag Island, I was filled with anticipation, eager to explore a land often described as lunar due to its stark, rocky landscape. The drive was a scenic one, with the Adriatic Sea glistening under the morning sun, and the rugged terrain of Pag gradually coming into view.

Upon arrival, our local guide, a passionate historian, began to unravel the rich tapestry of Pag’s history. The island’s main square, with its 15th-century Church of the Assumption, stood as a testament to the architectural prowess of the Šibenik and Zadar masters. The Rector’s Palace and the former Kamerlengo Fortress Tower added layers to the narrative, each stone whispering stories of the past.

The highlight, however, was the Benedictine Monastery of Pag, a bastion of cultural preservation. Here, the tradition of lace-making, a craft passed down through generations, continues to thrive. As I watched the skilled hands of the artisans at work, I was reminded of the intricate connections between history, culture, and community.

The Art of Cheese-Making at Gligora Dairy

Our next stop was the renowned Gligora Dairy, a short drive from the center of Pag. Known for its award-winning cheeses, the dairy offered a fascinating glimpse into the art of cheese-making. As a lover of culinary history, I was particularly intrigued by the traditional methods employed here, which have been honed over decades.

We were guided through the ageing rooms, where rows of cheese wheels matured to perfection. The air was rich with the aroma of fermenting cheese, a scent that promised a delightful tasting experience. And indeed, the tasting did not disappoint. From the sharp, tangy notes of the Pag cheese to the creamy, subtle flavors of the sheep’s milk varieties, each bite was a testament to the island’s rich agricultural heritage.

The visit to Gligora Dairy was not just about tasting cheese; it was a journey into the heart of Pag’s rural life, where tradition and innovation coexist harmoniously. It was a reminder of how food, like history, is a living narrative that connects us to the land and its people.

The Salt of the Earth: Nin Saltworks

Our final destination was the Nin Saltworks, a place where the ancient art of salt production is still practiced with reverence. As we walked along the salt pools, our expert guide explained the unique process that relies on the natural elements of sun, sea, and wind.

The salt from Nin is more than just a seasoning; it is a product of the environment, imbued with the essence of the Adriatic. The ecological and therapeutic qualities of the salt were fascinating, and I found myself captivated by the stories of how this humble mineral has shaped the region’s history.

As we concluded our tour and made our way back to Zadar, I reflected on the day’s experiences. The Pag Island and Nin Saltworks tour had been a journey through time, a chance to connect with the past while savoring the present. It was a reminder of the enduring legacy of history and the ways in which it continues to shape our world today.